We had been well forewarned of the challenges of these long, empty stretches by other cyclists who had traveled them before us, while our maps gave us the specific distances for which we'd need to prepare: 60-84 miles between towns... between grocery stores ...between water resources. As a result, our extra 3 Liters of water soon became an extra 8 Liters, enough water to safely sustain us for at least two full days of riding without refilling. We gladly accepted the extra weight for the assurance we would not be without water, and sometimes that seemingly excessive amount was just enough to last us between towns with resources.
Just over the eastern border into Nevada we reached one such town, called Baker, where one of the few businesses there served as both the local restaurant and as a general store at which to purchase basic groceries and toiletry items. The owner informed us that she has to drive 74 miles one-way to purchase fresh food for her restaurant and items to keep the little store selectively stocked; very important to us as it was the only "store" in town. We were thankful for her effort as we counted on it to restock our food supply and even to have a bit of fresh broccoli to add to our dinner. She also told us about the issue that many of the valley communities of Nevada are facing: their precious underground water tables are the sought after object of the thirsty Las Vegas area to serve their own growing population and tourist industry, which includes maintaining their gloriously green golf courses and such extravagant displays as the fountain at the Bellagio. Currently the people of these drastically different Nevada communities are fighting desperately over their own access to their state's limited supply of water. This debate reminds us that that the term "water crisis" does not only apply to something that is happening in the developing world, but it exists right here in various forms in the U.S. This issue is already causing serious debate over "water rights," and we hope that the solution is one that respects water as the precious resource it is and to be used wisely, especially in a desert state.
Within these vast stretches of open space we found incredible beauty, surprising silence, a subtle wonder, and plenty of room to breathe. It is no wonder that some people chose to make their home there.
Although travelling through this remarkable landscape has been incredibly enjoyable, we were faced with a few days that gave us a run for our money. One we will never forget truly showed us the tenacity of the Nevada winds. Over a flat basin of eight westward miles, with perfectly sunny, cloudless sky, a ridiculously strong southerly wind crossed sideways against us with such force that we were not sure if it was even possible to bike through it. Deciding to at least attempt it, we struggled slowly over the distance, fighting nonstop to keep the bikes from being blown off the road and into the ditch.
Two hours later, our arms aching from the effort, we finally made it across the valley to the base of the mountain pass. Lucky for us, a restaurant bar was perfectly located across the basin, and we treated ourselves to a can of soda each and hand-cut french fries with mustard, mayo, ketchup, and ranch dressing (anything with salt, fat, or calories) before we headed further up and over the next pass to Ely, our next city, before nightfall. With the wind now at our backs, our bikes cruised along at over 20 miles per hour. We slept soundly that night within the protective walls of the First Baptist Church of Ely as the wind continued to blow strongly throughout the night.
Most of our nights in Nevada have been spent camping amongst the desert life. We watch out for snakes and thorns and try to not kick up too much of the silty-fine dust that clings to everything. At this time of year, the temperature often drops below 40 degrees F at night, so we wear most of the protective layers of clothing we own and close the tent fly tightly before going to bed. A bright moon has often been our night sky companion, illuminating everything from the mountains to the basins in a blue grey hue. As the new moon and Fall approached we hardly needed to use our headlamps outside most nights.
On the first night of fall, we were camped on a rounded ridge known as New Pass Summit where a gorgeous full moon rose over the opposing mountain ridge and the valley of sage brush below. We watched in awe as the colors sank from pink into warm shades of purple before settling into a calming, soft, blue grey. Hours later while fast asleep, Carmen was awoken by the sound of several sets of hooves approaching the campsite. They stopped, then approached the tent sniffing inquisitively at the thin nylon fabric. She listen on, eyes wide and stiff as a board, listening intently as the hoofed animals wandered around the tent and bicycles. Unsure is she should do something, she prodded Narelle awake, "Narelle! There's-something-outside-the-tent-with-very-big-hooves!" Narelle unfazed by this occurrence groggily replied, "It's probably just a coowww," . Curiosity overcoming her, Carmen peaked outside the tent to see the silhouettes of two large horses grazing in the moonlight, both completely unfazed by the presence of a tent, two bicycles and two people camped out in the middle of the dessert! Apart from the horses and a few coyotes calling far off in the distance, the nights in the desert have been pleasantly peaceful.
Nearing the western border of the state, Nevada's spacious sage brush deserts (complete with a single, random "shoe tree" pictured here) were soon replaced with populated areas like Dayton and Carson City. Our greatly anticipated first glimpse of CALIFORNIA was just around the corner when, little did we know, that experience would fall short of how we had imagined it. Just a few miles from the border and just shy of our first view of Lake Tahoe, a truck pulled right out in front of Narelle as she traveled westward on Route 50 from Spooner Summit. In that instant, her bike collided with the side of the truck, sending her over the hood and off the other side. Her bicycle frame snapped completely into halves on impact, creating what she would later refer to as, "two unicycles." We never could have imagined that our long anticipated crossing over the California border, the last one of our journey across the country, would be done in an ambulance with Narelle strapped to backboard!
Since then, Narelle has been recouping from her injuries with the generous support of caring people here, such as the Browns and Staleys in Reno,
and the Staleys' extended family Starre and David Evans in Lake Tahoe, both families of whom have opened their homes to us for several weeks during her recovery.
As one can imagine, it's been a bit of a rollercoaster, but we are hopeful we can complete the remainder of the trip to San Fransisco once Narelle is able to exercise safely and comfortably.
Though our travel westward has been halted, our mission as Water Cycle 2010 has not been forgotten. It is our honor to announce that our goal of raising $5,000 to sponsor a well has been reached! Because of the generous donations from our friends, family, and people we have met along our journey, a community of 285 people will be supported through the gift of clean, safe water! This is a serious reason to celebrate!
Just as we shall continue our journey westward, we are also continuing to raise funds to support charity: water in their mission of bringing everyone person in the world water. Because our initial campaign is now closed so charity:water may begin to implement a water project as soon as possible, we have opened up a secondary campaign known simply as Water Cycle 2010- continued, which has already raised $120! Donating to this campaign may be done online, by cash or cheque, just as the first campaign. If donating by cheque you must use our new campaign code mycw-8174 in the cheque memo. We could never have imagined the difference and lives this journey across the U.S.A would make or the generosity and kindness we would experience. It is with great enthusiasm and appreciation that we thank all of those who have helped us positively change the lives of those desperately in need!
We also wish to send some very special thanks out to those who have helped US in our time of need. Matt Brown of Tahoe Douglas Fire Station 3 and his beautiful family: wife Melinda and children Ella and Eli. All the guys from Tahoe Douglas Fire Station 4, Steven, Chris, Jim, and Kevin, and their shift Chief Van Ogami.
Tahoe Douglas Fire Stations 3 (above) and 4 (below). "Top Blokes!" says Narelle. (And Kelly). :o)
Nicolle Chapman, the first responder on the scene the accident, who also transported our bikes for us immediately after and then visited us while in the ER. Nicolle is an retired paramedic/firefighter who now owns and operates her own towing business called Twisted Metal), the only female owned/operated towing business in all of Northern California! And of course, Starre and David Evans, and Rich and Shauna Staley and daughter Itaxa (a beautiful name, pronounced: E-Tah-sah). A shout out goes to Great Basin Bicycles of Reno for getting Narelle back on the road in style with a replacement of her dearly departed Redline conquest Pro a.ka "Red Rocket". Also to Steven Prather of the Tahoe Douglas Fire Department who offered the donation of his bicycle for Narelle as a replacement, to Ray from Austin who repaired Narelle's broken pannier rack when it desperately needed it(before the accident), getting her back on the road and the team of chiropractors and Physical therapists in South Lake Tahoe for their magical work and helping hands.
We are looking forward to resuming our journey across the United states and continuing to bring awareness to global water crisis. Thank you again for all that have assisted and supported us on this endeavour and for helping us positively change the lives of those in need of water.
2 comments:
So sorry about the wreck! It is no surprise you have both made the best of it. Safe travels to the coast!
Your love and devotion to make this world a better place is inspiring. Thank you.
Question: Will you go to the village that the well will be installed?
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